Guide
The story
Klebæk Høje — better known as the Bække Monument — occupies a low ridge beside the Hærvejen, the old army-and-ox road, about a kilometre north of Bække in southern Jutland. Two rounded Bronze Age barrows anchor the spot, and threaded between them lies a Viking-age ship setting: the outline of a longship, roughly 45 metres long, once traced by around sixty upright stones. A rune stone, Bække stone 2, marks the western prow.
The ship setting and its stone belong to the tenth century, about 900–950. When the National Museum excavated in 1957–58, the grave inside yielded only iron fragments and potsherds. Just nine of the original stones survive; the vanished ones were marked first with small boulders and, since 2011, with flush steel plates, so the hull's shape can still be read. One of the Bronze Age mounds serves as the ship's stern, and the medieval Hærvejen was later driven straight across the monument.
The rune stone was cut for a local magnate who styled himself Ravnunge-Tue, "Tue of Ravn's kin", in memory of his mother, Vibrog. The same man appears on Bække's church stone — where he, Fundin and Gnyple "made Thyra's mound" — and on the nearby Læborg stone, carved in memory of Thyra "his queen". Whether that Thyra is the famed Queen Thyra of Jelling, wife of Gorm the Old and mother of Harald Bluetooth, is long debated; recent analysis tying the same carver to a Jelling stone has revived the claim.
What you will see
Today the site is open heath-and-grassland on a breezy ridge, and the whole ship comes into focus as you walk it. Nine weathered stone blocks still stand where the Viking builders set them; between them, low steel plates set flush in the turf mark the missing stones, so the pointed 45-metre outline of the hull reads clearly end to end. Two grassy Bronze Age barrows rise at either end, one of them forming the ship's stern. At the western tip stands the rune stone, its carving worn but discernible in raking light. A deep, sunken hollow-way — the historic Hærvejen — cuts across the monument, a reminder of the road that shaped the place. Interpretive panels explain the layered Bronze Age, Viking and medieval history, and the ridge gives long views over the surrounding farmland.
Visiting
Klebæk Høje lies about 1–1.5 km north of Bække village in Vejen Municipality, southern Jutland, signposted from the Hærvejen route; the nearest towns are Vejen and Kolding, with Billund the closest airport. It is an open-air, freely accessible monument with a small car park and no entrance fee, and it sits directly on the waymarked Hærvejen walking and cycling trail. There is no visitor centre on site; interpretive signs stand among the stones. For directions, current access notes and any guided-walk programmes, check VisitVejen and the Danish Agency for Culture and Palaces (Slots- og Kulturstyrelsen) pages rather than relying on fixed hours.
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